66. From J. Marvin Lange to His Mother

A letter from Elder J. Marvin Lange, serving in the Western Canadian Mission, written on Sunday, July 25, 1948, to his mother in Salt Lake City, Utah. A copy of this letter was included in notes attached to a family group record in a large binder of genealogical records from Marvin's sister Helen [Helen Carrie Lange Amundsen] that we received on May 9, 2008, nearly fifty years after the letter was written. The letter thus appears out of its normal chronological order because of having just come to our attention.

Dearest Mother:

The day is slipping by and I should like to write you a worthwhile letter before the opportunity is gone altogether. I have spent one hour before I have to begin preparing for sacrament meeting. That should give me a start anyway, and maybe this evening will afford the necessary time for me to complete the letter.

In checking over some of your letters to me I see that you have asked me to retell the story of Yellowface that we heard from Pres. Card the night of conference at Cardston. My memory isn't very good, and I always have difficulty in repeating a story, but I took a few notes and perhaps from them you can reconstruct the salient points.

"YELLOWFACE"

The story is about a tribe of Cree Indians. Yellowface being their Chief. They were an independent tribe and had refused to take a reservation from the government (because they said you took the land from us, it is ours). There were perhaps less than 100 persons in the tribe, but they wandered through Saskatchewan not having any permanent home.

About 25 or 30 years ago a messenger came to Yellowface from the "unseen world" and told him to take the tribe and travel west until he came to a people who had a record of their forefathers. Yellowface was informed of five signs by which he could distinguish this people who were in possession of the book of his ancestors.

The messenger departed (can't recall if Pres. Card inferred that he might have been one of the Three Nephites or not), and Yellowface and his tribe set out west. Finally they landed on the Church ranch. Brother Caldwell was the foreman at the time, and he went down to greet them. Brother Caldwell said, "You are on our land, but you are welcome; stay as long as you want; fish in our streams; graze your cattle on our land; our cowboys will be passing through here often but in your camps they will act as gentlemen."

Pres. Card pointed out that to have 100 people suddenly park on your land would be very exasperating for most ranchers and the possibility is that others would have driven them off since such procedures would be most conducive to the rancher's economic welfare, or so they would suppose.

Well Yellowface was pleased at the reception given his tribe for more reasons than one. The signs that the messenger had given him were in the process of fulfillment, for these are the five ways he was to know the people who had the history of his forefathers: 1 = they will let you camp on their lands and they won't drive you off; 2 = their men will go through your camp and not molest your women; 3 = they will trade with you and not cheat you; 4 = they will invite you to their church; 5 = they will invite you into their homes and feed you.

It wasn't long until there was a ward reunion in Cardston. Bishop Parker went over to Yellowface and said, "We're having a banquet at the church and would like you to come over." Afterwards Yellowface was invited into their home and given food. The signs were complete. For once the Indians had been dealt with honestly, the Mormons had not sought advantage over the Redman, being honest and virtuous in all their relations together.

It wasn't long afterward that Yellowface invited Bishop Parker over to his lodge and asked him to talk. Yellowface listened to hear something of "his" book, for surely these were the people the messenger had told him to find, but Bishop Parker didn't mention the Book of Mormon at all. Sometime later Yellowface asked him back to talk some more. This time as Bishop Parker was leaving his home he picked up the Book of Mormon. He told Yellowface of the contents of the book, the thing which the Chief had been awaiting. He took the book from the bishop and put it inside his robe, saying "My book."

The Chief had some of the young braves read the Book of Mormon to him. (I don't know what affect the Book of Mormon had on the Chief, but he certainly had learned to respect the Mormon people.)

Some 20 to 25 years later Yellowface and his tribe were being put over on a little tract of land west of Calgary. The government officials gave them the right to choose their own school system, or in other other words, the church which they wanted to administer their secular affairs. The established churches, Roman Catholic and Anglican, were suggested but Yellowface would have none but the Mormons.

(The rest of the story is rather uncertain on my notes, but I think V. Wood, brother to Pres. Wood, was a member of parliament at the time, and he was put in charge of their schools.) Anyway, the news soon reached other members of the Church, and there were many volunteers to teach at the Indians' school. One who went was an Elder Kimball. It seems that Elder Kimball was the lad who had given a copy of the Book of Mormon to the Pope while in the service overseas. George Spencer of Leavitt also taught on this Indian reserve.

Well, Mother, that is about all that I can give you on "Yellowface." Perhaps you can fill in where the story isn't complete. It is now Monday morning and time for us to start tracting. Sorry that I didn't finish this yesterday when I could have written something other than the Indian story. I'll send this anyway hoping that even such as it is will be better than nothing.

The missionary work is coming along alright. We have another good contact, a lady who just seemed to be awaiting the message of the gospel. Perhaps I have mentioned her before. We received her name through the Eastern Canadian missionaries from one of their contacts. Her name is Mrs. Miles. We haven't spent many visits with her but last Wednesday when we called she practically bore her testimony to us. She wondered how it was that the other churches couldn't see that there was more to the Plan of Salvation than they were teaching. She is a lovely lady and has two of the nicest children I have seen anywhere; they are well-mannered, polite, and clean. Mrs. Miles is an avid reader and is hungry for a knowledge of the gospel. It is a pleasure to work with her.

I just received a letter from Joseph F. Smith, the former Patriarch. He is at Banff teaching for a few weeks this summer. He wrote to me from Hawaii before he left, thinking I was in Alberta and that we could probably arrange a meeting before he left the Province.

Well, I guess this will have to be 30 for now I have to get going. Thanks for all the encouragement. I don't know what I would have done without you and my sisters.

All my love and may the Lord bless you, always = Marvin

65. Claudia's Final Letter from Salzburg

Excerpts from a letter Claudia wrote in Salzburg, Austria, on May 5–6, 1971, her final one before returning home to the United States. She tells of being in Prague, Czechoslovakia for the Communist May Day parade. She also mentions an ending tour she would be going on toward the end of May “to Amsterdam, Brussels and then a tour through Scotland and Wales and back to London” before returning to the United States.

Last weekend we went to Prague, Czechoslovakia for the Communist May Day parade—that was quite an experience! You could feel the communism a lot more there than in Yugoslavia or East Berlin it seemed like. There is no private enterprise so all the stores have everything for the same price, a lot of the buildings are quite similar too ’cause they’re all government constructed. There’s just very little feeling of individuality and it’s real sad!

. . . Two girls from Prague stopped and asked us if they could help—one is a teacher and the other is studying to become a teacher—it seems they’d spent two months in England and they spoke pretty good English—it was interesting to hear how they felt about things: We were talking about the May Day parade and they told us that no one likes to go but that they’re forced to and are checked on—they said it was like living in a prison, that we don’t know what it’s like to live under socialism and to be glad and appreciate what we have—I think I really did learn to appreciate a lot more during this trip, freedom is a precious thing—we asked them if they thought they’d ever be able to go back to England again and they said they probably never would—it was sad—but it was awfully interesting to talk to them!

The weather turned cold and gray and rainy for May Day and the parade, but it just seemed to fit. We went to watch the parade but somehow we ended up in it—there were soldiers and policemen all up and down the street and after a certain part they wouldn’t let anyone through without a pass and so you had to get in the street with all the other millions of people (that’s how they get more people in the parade, they are pretty sneaky!) All of Czechoslovakia was decorated for the celebration—everywhere we went there were millions of flags—plain red flags for the working people; red, white and blue flags for Czechoslovakia; and the big red flag with the hammer and sickle and a star for the Communist party—and they were all everywhere! Prague was just RED! and they had a big platform set up where all the VIPs and dignitaries would sit during the parade and speak to the people—above it were four great big pictures—of Marx, Lenin, the guy who’s head of Czechoslovakia now, and some other guy—it was really something!

i’m going to be leaving on the end tour Monday, May 24. Our end tour is to Amsterdam, Brussels and then a tour through Scotland and Wales and back to London.

This weekend we’re going to see all the big famous castles in Germany, including King Ludwig’s castle, the Mad King. It ought to be really jolly!! I can’t wait to see them—castles are fun!

64. Mother's Day Card

An undated note penned inside a German Mother’s Day card, sent to Claudia’s mother, Barbara Jean Fraughton Lange (1928–1994), probably sometime in early May 1971. The printed portion of the card said, “Herzliche Glückwünschezum Muttertag.”

Liebe Mutti

Thank you so much for being the very best mother ever!! i really do love and appreciate all the many things you’ve done & the love you’ve shown me. You’ve always been so cheerful and jolly, i have lots of fun, special memories—like when you used to lay by us (and when we’d all get in the bed together on Saturday mornings!), the tickle-fights (with David always begging for more & then dying of laughter before you even touched him!), the way you’d be mommy again, and all the songs and little dances you could do. i hope i can graduate from mother’s school and be as good a mother as you’ve been.

i love you lots and lots, Mom, and hope you have a Joyful Mother’s Day!

Thank you for being my very favoritest mom! i love you!!

63. A General Letter from Salzburg

A second mimeographed letter dated April 20, 1971, in Salzburg, Austria, this time addressed to “Dear Family,” and signed by a bunch of the study abroad participants: the Ken Polly family, Marilyn Darland, Claire Richards, Claudia Lange, Tamera Nielsen, Lynda Christensen, and Marianne Thomas.

Saturday was the prescribed date for the return of the weary travelers, but no one dared set a date for our recovery. However, there were two days in which we could recuperate and try to prepare ourselves for the ever-threatening mid-terms. Easter Sunday was a delight for most of us who were looking forward to spending a day anywhere but on a bus. It was an overcast day, but the thrill of walking and sitting on something that didn’t bounce more than made up for the lack of sunshine.

Monday we turned our thoughts away from rest to the more practical aspects of life. Some spent the day acquiring writer’s cramp and almost wishing they hadn’t collected so many letters from home during vacation. Others gathered the multitudes of dirty clothes they had been saving and set out to find some place to get them cleaned and (hopefully) returned. Still others we the way of the bank in hopes of getting their pocketbooks replenished. All stood in fear of the oncoming tests for which they had not yet prepared themselves. As a matter of fact, there were those who were in voluntary solitary confinement, eating and drinking not. Needless to say, we were all grateful that there were only two days of tests to look forward to.

Finally test days came, and they were all that we had expected. Anxiety levels got higher and higher as tests in German, Education, Music, and Political Science were given. After it was all over, there went up a big sigh of relief from everyone.

These days were not without relief. On Wednesday, we had no tests in religion class, so Dr. Baker and Dr. Sucher spoke to us. These men are very competent in their roles as professors, but they are even more dedicated to the principles of the gospel of Jesus Christ. We appreciated hearing from them and being revitalized with the spiritual aspects of studying in Europe with a group from Brigham Young University.

Then came the customary day of parting. With the completion of those much worried-over tests, everyone was ready for an escape into the realms of recreation. One group went to Kapurn, a monstrous glacier, where you could ski and ski and ski. Some went to Switzerland and, among other things, bore gifts from loving sisters to some lucky missionaries. Others, who decided to get a better look at the Salzburg area, went on a day’s bicycle trip to Hellbrun Castle, and the choir started that day on the trip to Kaiserslautern to sing at a conference.

With only four days away from the bus, it was with little enthusiasm that the choir members started another four-day trip, but with a stop every little while, the ride was easily forgotten, but the places we visited are the experiences we will remember. The old German town of Dinkelsühl was our first stop. We spent an interesting night in the youth hostel there. At first we thought it might be an old monastery, but the sign definitely said youth hostel, so we unloaded and started to look for the entrance. The entrance turned out to be a huge wooden door at which we were greeted by some brass trumpets heralding our approach. We felt like we were entering some medieval castle. It turned out to be an orchestra practicing who welcomed us, but we never lost our accompaniment, as the springs in the beds were rusted, and when we turned over in our beds we had a lovely chorus of screaming springs. Dinkelsühl was beautiful though. On Friday morning we looked around the town and some even climbed the tower by the St. George Church and had a magnificent view of the country.

On our way to Frankfurt on Friday, we stopped by Rothenburg, where we met Sister Hahn, who is the only member of the Church in that city. Then we went to Würzburg and the Residenz Palace and hurried on to Frankfurt, where we spent the night.

In Frankfurt we met President Luschien, who is a counselor to President Cannon of the West German Mission. President Luschien is also the man who translated Jesus the Christ, by James Talmage, into German. On Saturday morning President Luschien gave us a short tour of Frankfurt before we got on our way to Heidelberg and then on to Kaiserslautern.

Sunday we sang at the conference in Kaiserslautern. It was a touching event even though we still don’t understand much of what is said. President Luschien took very good care of us, and we were sorry to leave so soon, but we were all anxious to get back to Salzburg. Before we left, we made a quick trip to the PX and bought 45 hamburgers and some French fries and pop. What a way to end a trip!

Now we are beginning a new week—so that means it’s almost over. Soon we’ll only be able to say that we remember our trip to Salzburg. We are enjoying it here. Thanks again for helping us come.

62. Claudia from Yugoslavia

Excerpts from a letter Claudia wrote in Yugoslavia on Sunday, April 4, 1971. She tells of a sacrament meeting they held in Thessaloniki, Greece, where the Apostle Paul ministered nearly two millennia earlier.

Liebe Familie

Here we are in Skopje, Yugoslavia! We’ve been traveling on the bus all day and tomorrow we travel some more to get to Dubrovnik— i’m getting really experienced at traveling long hours! Boy, that 12-hour ride to and from Utah won’t even phase me anymore!! Today being Sunday we had a really neat experience—we held our own sacrament service in Thessaloniki, Greece, where Paul wrote his letters to the Thessalonians so long ago. It’s a large city (the second largest in Greece—Athens is first) but we stopped at a park next to the dock and with the boats and men drying their fishing nets it must have been very similar to when Paul walked, talked and wrote there. We sat on the grass and had our own little service—i’m sure it was the only one in all of Greece (Greece is 95 percent Greek Orthodox and the Church has no mission in Greece) but yet it’s neat to know that we can have church wherever we go—we’re not like the Catholics who need their guilt church buildings and ceremony—as long as we have the priesthood there to bless and pass the sacrament we could have church in the wilderness—anywhere!! Needless to say, it was a really special meeting! A lot of people had gathered around, watch¬ing us and for our closing song we stood up and faced them to sing “The Spirit of God.”

Greece and Italy are beautiful—especially Greece! They’re so green with tall dark cypress trees and then all the olive trees—the mountains and hills of Greece are covered now with green-green, spring-green grass that waves in the wind and they’re covered with all kinds and colors of wild flowers!! It was so jolly when we went to the ruins at Corinth, Mycenae and Delphi ’cause you could climb all over the neat rocks and ruins and pick the most joyful flowers—I picked bunches and bunches full!!! i’ve pressed some of them so I can save them for ever and always! I wish we had wild flowers all over at home like that—it makes the whole world so beautiful and joyful!—those days climbing and exploring the ruins have been my most favorite days of the trip—the sun even shined! (We’ve had mostly gray overcast days—those days of 90 degree weather in Athens and Rome disappeared.)

i’m really having a jolly time with the Williams’ kids—there are five of them and poor Sister Williams really has a handful running after all of them—the kids and I get along great so i’ve been trying to help her a little by watching after the kids a lot during the trip (actually I guess it’s more for my benefit—you know how I love kids and love to be around them!!!) The youngest is Terrill, he’s less than two, and he’s so cute—right now he has a crush on me—he calls me Kwadia and always runs to me when he sees me or wants me to hold him instead of his mother holding him (I eat it up! I love to hold kids) Glenn is jolly too!—he’s four and has the biggest dark eyes—they’re all jolly and I have so much fun playing with them! Somehow it seems like they all flock around and so we have fun together—walking or climbing or just sitting on the bus together—I love to help Sister Williams with the kids.

Tomorrow is going to be exciting—we’ll be going through a treacherous mountain pass to get to Dubrovnik and there’s six feet of snow all around—the roads are clear but very winding and we have to go slow—but it sounds exciting (eventful anyway)—when we get there i’m going to go to the Tourist Office and get some posters of Yugoslavia—they’re free and they make great souvenirs.

61. Claudia from Greece

An excerpt from a postcard sent from Greece, written by Claudia on Thursday, April 1, 1971.

We spent Tuesday night in a hotel in Xylokastro (I dare you to pronounce it!) right on the edge of the beach—it was so beautiful and jolly. I went right out and ran up and down the beach and in the morning I gathered a whole pocketful of real beach pebbles from the shores of Greece! Yesterday we saw the ruins of Corinth and Mycenae—it was really jolly ’cause they are on beautiful hills that are covered with green and wild flowers ’cause it’s spring—it’s neat how they grow around the rocks and ruins—I climbed all over them and picked bunches and bunches of flowers! i’m in love with Greece—it’s the greenest country i’ve seen, with rocky cliffs and green hills and meadows and the sea is all around! People here don’t have cows but goats instead so we drink goat’s milk and the donkey is their main work animal—we see lots of goats and donkeys and sheep too.

60. Claudia from Rome

A postcard Claudia sent her family from Rome, Italy, on Saturday, March 27, 1971.

i’ve decided Italy has to be the most romantic country in the world—I fell in love with Florence. It’s so beautiful and then everywhere you go it’s rolling green hills, vineyards and beautiful trees—it’s just joyful!

You should see our hotel here in Rome—it’s unbelievable! Everything is marble and there are song birds in cages and aquari¬ums with beautiful fish and they even have a cage of monkeys in it! (Boy, those monkeys sure scared me that first night when I went bipping by in the dark—they woke up and started to shake their cages—I just about lost seven years growth—and I can’t afford that!) But everything is really elegant (except the rooms themselves)—they even have a roof garden between the fourth and fifth floors which is a terrace with fountains and statues and foliage all around—it looks out over Rome and it’s so beautiful—especially at night when the stars are out.

Today we had a tour of Vatican City and it was really interesting—we saw the Sistine Chapel—it’s unbelievable! I don’t see how Michelangelo could put so much of his life into doing the ceiling, especially having to lie on his back the whole time! That’s really devotion and unbelievable skills and genius!! We also went to St. Peters which is the church the Pope presides over as bishop and it’s also the largest church in the world—it’s BIG!! And the interesting thing is that it’s never completely done—’cause every time a Pope dies a new one is chosen and more is added—it’s really magnificent to see. I thought I was going to get a stiff neck today, so much to see and so high up! Tomorrow we see ancient Rome.

59. Claudia from Venice

A postcard Claudia sent her family from Venice, Italy, on Friday, March 26, 1971.

This is Venice—with lots of jolly canals and water and boats and everything! We took a boat down the Grand Canal to our hotel yesterday and last night a guide took us on a walking tour of the city. Venice is actually 117 small islands connected by 450 bridges—so you can walk anywhere in Venice and that’s what we did! We just bipped all over—through narrow winding allies and over bridges and all sorts of fun things!

The Italian Navy is here and that’s a real experience—all the cafes and bars were on strike last night and those sailors didn’t know what to do with themselves. We kept to big bunches with the priesthood handy, so they didn’t give us any trouble.

The ride through the Italian Alps was really beautiful! You’ve never seen such majestic mountains, rugged and all covered with snow!! Oh it was joyful!! Today we’re on our way to Florence (that’s where they filmed Romeo and Juliet).

58. A General Letter from Salzburg

A mimeographed letter dated March 11, 1971, addressed to “Dear Folks” and signed by lots of the study abroad students stationed in Salzburg, Austria. The first four paragraphs were signed by Judy Northcott. The final ten paragraphs were signed by the Tom Jarret family, Patty Jean Porter, Janis Tribe, Kathy Barlow, Sandi Harnagle, Elaine Bowers, and Shiela Harris. Claudia was with the group of students who visited Budapest, Hungary.

In spite of what some people think, we do study over here. The music history class had a most fascinating lecture this week by Dr. Rech, who is the secretary of the Mozart’s Historical Society. He told us some interesting details about Mozart’s life that you just can’t find in general music history books, and he showed us some of the original letters and manuscripts which have been preserved. The letters told interesting details about Mozart’s personality and his relationship to his family, and the manuscripts revealed the immaculate perfection of his creative genius. It was a most exciting hour for us musicians.

Another exciting event for some of us was the opportunity to play in the Mozarteum for the opera, “The Barber of Seville,” by Rossini. The entire production was done by students, even the conducting. Katie Blocker commented that it was a strange new experience to be under the direction of a German-speaking conductor and not to be certain of the meaning of his directions. It is a good thing music is an international language! They had two four-hour rehearsals, Thursday and Friday nights, and then performed Saturday and Sunday. So our tired players were quite relieved when it was over but glad for the experience.

For those who didn’t go to Budapest, the weekend was full of various activities. Some went skiing, some to Oberndor, others to Freilassing or Berchtesgaden, which are just a few miles from Salzburg. Several made trips to Munich by train or with Brothers Williams and/or Sucher. An interesting sight in Munich is the Schatykammer or Royal Treasury where there are many crown jewels and other precious gems. Sometimes it was hard to believe the size and beauty of the diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and sapphires. In the late afternoon some rode out to Dachau on the outskirts of Munich. Dachau was one of Hitler’s concentration camps. There is a museum there and you can walk through the gas chambers and the barrack grounds. It was a most sobering experience.

We all had dinner at the Hofbrau, the most famous beer hall in Germany. It was exciting to think we had Munich beer on our shoes and if you are interested in a place with rollicking atmosphere that is a good place to visit. Afterwards, our music fans went to the famous opera by Mozart, “The Magic Flute.” the Bavarian state opera house is very opulently decorated, and of course the opera was wonderful. Dr. Williams takes students to Munich once or twice a week to attend operas or other concerts. Europe certainly has a wonderful musical heritage and we are all thrilled to be a part of it.

On the weekend of March 11th–14th, 50 of us traveled to Budapest, Hungary, to discover a new exciting world. Emotions were mixed as we felt the delight of the Hungarian customs and Gypsies, and then experienced Communism and saw the scars of the 1956 Revolution. Hungary is one of the freest communist countries. The people have freedom of religion, and may leave the country for brief periods after conforming to complicated bureaucratic procedures.

We began our tour with a visit to state farm in Gyor. It was 125,000 acres in an area with about 2,500 workers. 40% of the workers are women. All types of grains are produced, 85% of them to be exported. Here we were told that after the age of 16, everyone is required to work, although the choice of job is theirs, if they have qualifications. The fortunate, who can pass the educational tests upon graduating from the 12-year school system, are provided with further education by the government, then they are expected to use their knowledge to profit Hungary. A major problem today is the number of youth who leave the country upon finishing college.

The cost of living is rather low with only luxuries being high-priced. Few people have cars, but most have the necessities they need. We saw many horse-drawn carts on the farms.

On the evening of the 11th, we were given a great Hungarian meal, and first-class attention from the Gypsy orchestra. They wandered from table to table playing requests and delighting the students.

We had two tours of the city. Budapest was originally two separate towns: “Buda,” which means “water,” and “Pest,” meaning “bread.” The Danube divides the two parts.

On Friday morning we toured Buda, visiting the Citadelle, Matthias Church, Fisherman’s Bastian, Royal Palace, and the Vienna Gate. All were up on the hills of Buda overlooking the Danube and Pest. We also visited the wine cellar, built in a natural cave under a tavern. That evening we were given excellent front center section seats for the tragic opera, “Tosca,” written by Puccini. It was sung in the Hungarian language, but we were saved by programs explaining the scenes to us.

The east side of the Danube or Pest was our campus on Saturday morning. Here we saw the Parliament Building, Margaret Island, Hero’s Square, the Basilika Cathedral, People’s Stadium, Amphitheatre, other Roman ruins, and the National Gallery.

It was so interesting to see the evidence of the past revolutions, especially the platform where Stalin’s statue had been. In 1956 it was pulled down and shattered by the freedom seekers. It was evident to us why these people with all their customs would fight to keep their freedom.

To bring our evenings in Budapest to a close, we were given a “wine-tasting” party, but as requested, our drinks were only fruit juices which we daringly mixed together. They also served a special Goulash soup, and a meat course. The night was filled with Gypsy music, folk dances, and singing.

The highlight of our visit, however, must have been our lasting friendship and memories of our guide, Laslo. He was full of the spirit of love and was so kind to all of us! Not only did he see to all of our comforts and needs, but he imparted a vast amount of knowledge concerning Hungary and Budapest. We were excited to find that he didn’t smoke or drink. He was very interested in the gospel. Just recently, John and Margie Hasler and Martin Harris visited with him until three o’clock in the morning and he went to church with them. Perhaps with prayer and fasting, the church may gain a wonderful member and maybe even a family. We loved Laslo and as we sang, “The Lord Bless You and Keep You,” there was not a dry eye among us—even Laslo had tears!

57. Claudia from Salzburg

Excerpts from a letter Claudia wrote to her family on Saturday, March 6, 1971, from Salzburg, Austria. She recounts a visit to Vienna, Austria.

Last weekend we went to Vienna & had a gay ol’ time—every minute was packed with fun-filled adventure & Moments to Remember! We took the long southern route to Vienna & passed through the most beautiful mountain country i’ve ever seen—it was like the movie Heidi, with little villages snuggled in tiny valleys covered with snow & surrounded by mountains of tall pines—we saw two snow avalanches off the mountain¬side, that was kind of exciting & then we put our bus on the train & went through a long tunnel for about 10 or 15 minutes—that’s the only way anybody can get through the mountain pass during the winter. One of the neatest parts of the whole trip was when we got to get out of the bus & climb an old castle that was high on the hill—it was so jolly & old—just like the real thing (which it was!) i climbed this one little winding stairway that was made of crumbling stone & covered with leaves—it was real tiny & narrow, just like out of King Arthur & when I got to the top i was in a lookout tower—it was so joyful! i could see clear out over the entire valley (no one could have sneaked up on this castle ’cause you could see everything! It was so exciting!) The castle was so neat—it had turrets and places for the weapons in the wall & everything!!! Boy, castles are fun to climb, i wish we had them in America!

The trip normally only takes 4 hours from Salzburg to Vienna but since we took the long southern route & stopped to climb the castle, it took us about 13—when we finally got to Vienna the bus driver got lost & we drove around the city for a while looking for the youth hostel where we were going to stay—we finally ran into Dr. Baker in his little VW, he was looking for us, & he led the caravan to the hostel. We had 8 in a room—4 sets of bunk beds—and it was the same bunch who’d been with us in Berlin, we really have a gay ol’ time together! We laugh & talk all night with a little “soft shoeing” & messing around thrown in for fun—we really get along good together!

Saturday morning we got up & it was freezing cold outside! i have never been in such cold weather in my entire life! Even with gloves & boots & arctic tights my hands & toes froze—i couldn’t believe it! (We found out the next day that it had been –20o F with 30 mph winds—which explained it) but that just made it all the more an adventure!! The famous Lippizan horses weren’t performing but they were training & that was open to the public so we went & watched—Goll, those horses are fantastic! They are precision trained & just beautiful (pure white), they’re so neat to watch!

After we went to the Spanish riding school & saw the Lippizan horses we—hey there’s so much to tell you i’m going to sen y’all a tape OK?!!! Vienna was full of adventure!

i love y’all lots & think about you often! A lot is happening all the time & there’s so much to say but i just don’t have the patience to write it all down—so be expecting a tape. i love you!!